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Sparkling Royal Jewels From Around the World

Archives for January 2021

The Dutch Diamond Trellis Necklace

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Chris Jackson/Getty Images

The Dutch royal jewelry collection is full of sparkling wonders. One of my personal favorites is this delicate, dazzling jewel: the Diamond Trellis Necklace.

JON OLAV NESVOLD/AFP via Getty Images

The necklace, made around 1900, is a wonder of delicate jewelry construction. The piece features around a hundred diamonds mounted on a knife-edge platinum setting in a trellis or lattice design. The largest diamonds can be swapped out for other stones, including sapphires, pearls, and rubies. These fishnet-like motifs were popular at the turn of the twentieth century, with firms like Cartier also producing similar pieces. This particular necklace, though, was reportedly made by Koch, a German firm that frequently employed these knife-edge lattice designs in their pieces. Compare this necklace, for example, to the Koch-made kokoshnik owned by the Prussian royal family. (The lattice design is also why I suspect that the Swedish Aquamarine Kokoshnik may have been made by Koch.) The clever knife-edge setting almost disappears when viewed from a distance, making the diamonds look as if they are floating freely.
World History Archive/Alamy

The necklace was a wedding gift to Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands from her mother, Queen Emma. Wilhelmina married Prince Henry of Mecklenburg-Schwerin in 1901. She didn’t wear the necklace on her wedding day, but she wore it often in the ensuing years. She reportedly particularly favored the necklace’s pearl setting, and she often stacked it with a single-stranded pearl necklace. In the portrait above, which dates to the 1920s, she wears the trellis necklace in that format. You’ll also spot the Dutch Ears of Wheat attached to a bandeau, as well as the Dutch Diamond and Pearl Devant de Corsage.

The necklace also included fittings that allowed it to be worn with a series of pendant drops. In the formal state portrait above, a younger Queen Wilhelmina wears the necklace with seven pear-shaped pearl pendants, and again stacks it with another pearl necklace. (She’s wearing the necklace with the Wurttemberg Ornate Pearl Tiara, which is so tall that it almost resembles a crown, plus the devant de corsage and lots of other pearls.) Reportedly, the necklace could also be worn with a set of seven diamond drops.
Wim van Rossem/Anefo/Nationaal Archief/Wikimedia Commons

From Queen Wilhelmina, the necklace passed to Queen Juliana, her only daughter. She wore the necklace frequently at gala events in various settings. Here, during a dinner at the Austrian embassy in May 1961, she wears the all-diamond setting of the necklace with additional diamond and pearl jewels. (You’ll again spot the diamond and pearl devant de corsage pinned to her sash.)
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Delightfully, Queen Juliana also experimented with the necklace. During her visit to the United States in the spring of 1952, she wore the trellis necklace as a hair ornament for a dinner at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York. The dinner, which was sponsored by the Netherlands-America Foundation, was also attended by one of Juliana’s friends, Eleanor Roosevelt. Juliana wore the all-diamond version of the necklace in her hair for the banquet, but she paired it with sapphire jewels, including Queen Emma’s Sapphire Necklace and her Sapphire Bow Brooch. (More on the sapphires over here!)
Ron Kroon/Anefo/Nationaal Archief/Wikimedia Commons

During Juliana’s reign, the necklace was also worn by her daughters. Princess Irene, for example, paired the necklace with the Dutch Ears of Wheat Tiara during the state visit from Queen Elizabeth II in 1958. And above, Princess Beatrix wears the sapphire setting of the necklace in June 1968 for a philharmonic concert. She paired the necklace with diamond earrings and the diamond and sapphire wing brooch.
Michel Porro/Getty Images

Princess Margriet still continues to wear the necklace on occasion. Here, she wears the all-diamond setting for the 40th birthday celebrations for King Willem-Alexander in September 2007.  
CARL COURT/AFP via Getty Images

Another royal sister-in-law, Princess Mabel of Orange-Nassau, has been pictured in the necklace as well. She paired it with her diamond wedding tiara in April 2013 for the gala dinner held the night before King Willem-Alexander’s inauguration ceremony.
Sion Touhig/Getty Images

The most enthusiastic wearer of the necklace in recent years, however, has been Queen Maxima. She embraced the piece from the start, and has worn it in at least two of its settings. Above, she makes an early appearance in the diamond setting of the necklace at the wedding of Princess Martha Louise of Norway. On that occasion, she paired it with the Dutch Star Tiara, her wedding diadem.
Chris Jackson/Getty Images

She also wore the all-diamond setting with diamond earrings from the royal vaults for a grand 60th birthday party in November 2008 at Buckingham Palace in honor of the Prince of Wales.
JON OLAV NESVOLD/AFP via Getty Images

She wore the sapphire setting of the necklace in May 2017 in Oslo during the glittering 80th birthday celebrations for King Harald V and Queen Sonja of Norway.
KOEN VAN WEEL/AFP via Getty Images

And a few months later, in September 2017, she wore the all-diamond setting of the necklace with Queen Juliana’s aqumarines for Prinsjesdag, the annual opening of the Dutch parliament, in The Hague.

Queen Mary’s Pink Sapphire Cluster Brooch

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TOBY MELVILLE/POOL/AFP via Getty Images

Queen Elizabeth II’s brooch collection features gems in all colors of the rainbow. Today, we’re thinking pink: specifically, the pink sapphire cluster brooch that belonged to Queen Mary.

RICHARD POHLE/AFP via Getty Images

The brooch isn’t much bigger than a large button, but it packs a lot of color and sparkle into its petite package. The centerpiece of the brooch is a lovely faceted gemstone in a pleasant shade of pink. It’s surrounded by a thin halo of diamonds, and then by a cluster of ten larger brilliants. Ten more tiny diamonds are studded around the edge of the brooch.
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For years, the specific identification of the type of this pink gemstone has been debated. Could it be a pink topaz? Perhaps a pink tourmaline, or even a pink spinel? In 2015, we appear to have gotten confirmation that this is indeed a pink sapphire. The ID came in the press notes accompanying a photographic portrait of the Queen taken by Mary McCartney. That handout described the piece as a “pink sapphire and diamond brooch.” The hue of the pink sapphire tends to change quite a bit depending on lighting and the colors surrounding it. Sometimes it reads as a very true bright pink, while other times it trends much more purple or lilac.
Everett Collection Inc./Alamy

The brooch was inherited by the Queen from Queen Mary, who wore it occasionally in the 1940s. Much as her granddaughter has done, Mary developed a sort of public uniform, wearing shirts with tall collars for daytime occasions. She often pinned small brooches right at her throat with these ensembles, and the pink sapphire cluster pops up occasionally in photographs from the era. Above, she wears the brooch for a very important public appearance in May 1942. In her first public engagement since the outbreak of World War II, she accompanied King George VI and Queen Elizabeth to watch the armored brigade of the Guards of the Household Division take part in military exercises at Southern Command. She pinned the pink sapphire at her throat, and appropriately also wore the Guards Brooch on her jacket.

Seven years later, Queen Mary wore the pink sapphire brooch (as well as the Guards Brooch) for another event related to the Guards, this time at Buckingham Palace. In May 1949, she stood with the Earl and Countess of Athlone and Princess Elizabeth to watch the presentation of new colors to the 1st Battalion of the Welsh Guards. In both this image and the one from 1942, the distinctive cluster border of the brooch helps to identify it as the same piece now worn by the Queen; the diamond brilliants are easily counted and compared.
Chris Jackson/Getty Images

The brooch has surely been in the Queen’s collection for more than half a century, but she didn’t really start to wear it with frequency until about a decade ago. In November 2010, she packed it in her luggage for a trip to the Middle East, wearing it during a state visit to Oman. (See all the jewels from that state visit here!)

Two years later, she wore the brooch for the cover of Dressing the Queen, the first book written by her personal assistant and dresser, Angela Kelly.
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Since then, the Queen has made multiple appearances in the brooch every year. She often wears it for audiences at Buckingham Palace, like this meeting with John Agard, the Queen’s Gold Medal for Poetry winner, in March 2013. She wears the brooch with clothing in all shades of pink—here, she pinned it to a dress that reads quite coral on camera.
John Stillwell/WPA Pool/Getty Images

In March 2014, she wore the brooch with a lightly patterned pink and white dress for an audience with the Ambassador of the Republic of Guinea, Paul Zoumanigui.
Yui Mok – WPA Pool/Getty Images

Another Buckingham Palace appearance of the brooch, this time paired with a light pink tweed dress, came in February 2019, when she received the Hon. Vicki O’Halloran.
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On two separate recent occasions, she’s worn the brooch with the same pink and gray floral dress for audiences at the palace. Above, she wears the combination in October 2016 for a meeting with Dr. Asha-Rose Migiro, the High Commissioner of Tanzania…
Yui Mok – WPA Pool/Getty Images

…and here, in February 2017, she wears the same dress and jewels to receive Guy Mayers, the High Commissioner for St. Lucia.
Dominic Lipinski – WPA Pool/Getty Images

The small brooch does tend to get lost a little bit against such brightly-patterned fabrics. The same thing happened with this outfit in July 2019, during an audience with Dame Sarah Mullally, the new Dean of the Chapel Royal.
ADRIAN DENNIS/AFP via Getty Images

The Queen doesn’t just wear the pink sapphire for diplomatic occasions and audiences, though. She also frequently dons it for regional visits throughout the UK. In April 2013, she wore it for a visit to a thoroughly British institution: Mars Chocolate UK in Slough.
Chris Jackson/Getty Images

This is another favorite outfit-brooch combination for the Queen. She wore it again in October 2013 for a visit to a youth hostel in Lewes…
RICHARD POHLE/AFP via Getty Images

…and once more in April 2017, this time for a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Motability at Windsor Castle.
Lefteris Pitarakis – WPA Pool/Getty Images

The brooch has also accompanied the Queen a trip to the National Theatre’s prop-making workshop in London in October 2013…
TOBY MELVILLE/AFP via Getty Images

…as well as a stop at the Lister Community School in London in March 2016…
ADRIAN DENNIS/AFP via Getty Images

…and a visit to Berkhamsted School, one of her patronages, in May 2016.
Arthur Edwards-WPA Pool/Getty Images

She wore the brooch with another tweedy ensemble in December 2013 at Westminster Abbey, where she viewed the new Diamond Jubilee Window.
Niklas Halle’n – WPA Pool/Getty Images

And she repeated the same clothes and brooch combination several years later for a July 2016 visit to the East Anglian Air Ambulance Base at Cambridge Airport, where she and the Duke of Edinburgh were given a tour by the Duke of Cambridge. (Angela Kelly and her staff keep careful records of which outfits and jewels have been worn by the Queen and on what occasions, partly to ensure that pieces aren’t repeated too frequently.)
HANNAH MCKAY/AFP via Getty Images

A few weeks earlier, the Queen had worn the brooch with a pink and white outfit for an engagement at Marlborough House: the launch of the Commonwealth Hub.
Chris Jackson/Getty Images

While the brooch has become a regular part of the Queen’s working wardrobe, she also wears it on some of her favorite annual occasions. In June 2017, she made a splash on Ladies’ Day at Royal Ascot, wearing the brooch with a vivid pink ensemble.
Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images for Ascot

She wore the brooch again at Ascot Racecourse (with a quieter outfit) later that year for British Champions Day in October.
RICHARD POHLE/POOL/AFP via Getty Images

In May 2018, she chose the brooch for another favorite annual outing: her visit to the Chelsea Flower Show.
Stephen Pond/Getty Images

And in December 2018, she wore the brooch for one of the most high-profile outings of the year: the annual Christmas Day church service near the Sandringham estate in Norfolk.
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Over the past two years, we’ve seen the brooch pop up on a handful of occasions, too. One of these was a March 2019 visit to King’s College London with the Duchess of Cambridge.
Duncan McGlynn/Getty Images

Another was a church service at Crathie Kirk near Balmoral in August 2019. As the world begins to emerge from its slumber over the next year, here’s hoping we’ll get to see this brilliant pink sapphire sparkling on the Queen again soon!