Catherine the Great’s Diamond Bow Necklace (Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s) |
Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s |
Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images |
Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images |
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Sparkling Royal Jewels From Around the World
Catherine the Great’s Diamond Bow Necklace (Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s) |
Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s |
Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images |
Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images |
Countess Gunnila Bernadotte wears her diamond and pearl aigrette (Photo: Wikimedia Commons) |
We learned recently that a jewel that has appeared at various recent royal functions will soon be sold at auction. It’s not a particularly surprising sale: the piece is the diamond and pearl aigrette that belonged to the late Countess Gunnila Bernadotte, widow of Count Carl Johan Bernadotte. Countess Gunnila died in September.
Countess Gunnila and Count Carl Johan Bernadotte (Photo: MAJA SUSLIN/AFP/Getty Images) |
Bukowski’s will auction the aigrette, which does not have any previous royal provenance. It comes from Gunnila’s own family, a line of Swedish aristocrats. The piece’s association with royalty comes from Gunnila herself, who married the son of King Gustaf VI Adolf of Sweden and his first wife, Margaret of Connaught. Gunnila’s husband, Count Carl Johan, was the uncle to two sovereigns, King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden and Queen Margrethe II of Denmark. Because of her husband’s royal links, Gunnila often attended royal functions, and she generally wore this tiara.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons |
A press release from the auction house describes the aigrette as “unusual and very personal in its design.” It also provides a description of the piece’s materials and form: “platinum, diamonds, and cultured pearls, forming an elegant lily of the valley.” The piece reportedly bears French hallmarks. As is the case with many aigrettes, the piece can be taken apart, and the central lily of the valley motif can be worn as a brooch.
Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images |
Pieces of jewelry with royal connections often command much higher prices at auction, so it’s no surprise that Bukowski’s is heavily advertising this aigrette’s royal associations. The tiara will be on display to the public from December 6-12 in Stockholm, and it will be auctioned on December 13.
The necklace from the suite of jewels (Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images) |
We’ve already covered two of the most spectacular jewels that will be sold at Sotheby’s in Geneva this month: Catherine the Great’s Bow Necklace and the Sky Blue Diamond Ring. Today, we’re looking at a third lot from the sale, an unusual, impressive suite of jewels with roots in the Ottoman Empire.
Image: Sotheby’s |
Here’s how the auction house’s lot notes describe the pieces being sold: “a necklace composed of a series of graduated clusters set with cushion-shaped diamonds of various tints, within frames of similarly shaped and rose near-colourless stones, alternating with foliate motifs, the front decorated with two pear-shaped diamonds of yellow tint within a surround of cushion-shaped stones, and a detachable line of cushion-shaped diamonds and foliate motifs, the central fancy brown-yellow diamond supporting a pendant set with a modified heart brilliant-cut fancy grey diamond, further accented with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, length approximately 270mm, central cluster and clasp detachable, one small diamond deficient; a pair of earrings, later post fittings; and a brooch.”
Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s |
The pieces are not only unusual for their varied colored diamonds; they also have royal provenance. They were made in the 1870s for Emine Hanim, the wife of Khedive Teufik of Egypt. The pieces were a gift to the Khediva in honor of the birth of her son, Abbas II. (He later succeeded his father as khedive — and famously gave a very familiar tiara to a royal princess.) The man who gave the pieces to the Khediva was one of the most powerful men in that part of the world: Abdul Hamid II, ruler of the Ottoman Empire. The Khediva ended up exercising some power of her own: after her son’s accession in 1892, she was given the title of Valida Pasha and became one of her son’s most important political advisors.
Photo: DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images |
But the diamonds set in these pieces may have an even longer history. According to tradition, they were given by Empress Catherine I to Sultan Ahmed III during the negotiations to end an eighteenth-century war between the Ottoman Empire and Russia.
Photo: Ben A. Pruchnie/Getty Images for Sotheby’s |
The Valida Pasha died in 1931, and her son was deposed in 1944, but the family managed to hang on to this unusual suite of jewels until 1963. That year, they were sold at Christie’s, with the Russian provenance related clearly in the sale catalogue. They have remained in a private collection in Europe since then, but on November 16, they will be sold again at Sotheby’s. This time around, the auction estimate for the suite has been set at approximately $3-5 million.