If you’re only going to have one tiara in your royal jewelry collection, it had better be a versatile one! Such is the case with Princess Alexandra’s tiara, a convertible piece which can be worn with a number of different gemstones.
The Teck Turquoise Tiara
The Duchess of Gloucester wears the Teck Turquoise Tiara, 2015 (JUSTIN TALLIS/AFP/Getty Images) |
The incredible Gloucester tiara collection includes multiple pieces inherited from Queen Mary, including the Teck Turquoise Tiara. Combining turquoises with diamonds in an intricate design, the tiara has been worn by two generations of Gloucester duchesses.
The suite from the Illustrated London News drawings of Queen Mary’s wedding gifts, 1893 |
The piece was originally made for Princess Mary Adelaide of Cambridge, a granddaughter of George III, who married Prince Francis, Duke of Teck. The tiara was a part of a parure of turquoise jewelry that was made for Mary Adelaide around 1850; the set also originally included a necklace, earrings, and three brooches. (Eventually, additional turquoise pieces were added to the suite of jewels.)
Queen Mary wears the tiara before its 1912 renovation |
In 1893, the Duke and Duchess of Teck gave the parure to Princess Mary as a wedding present. Her new husband was, of course, the future King George V, meaning that the turquoises would adorn a British queen consort. Always tinkering with her jewels, the turquoise tiara didn’t escape Mary’s eye for adaptation. The tiara was originally taller, but Mary had its size reduced in 1912 by E. Wolff and Co., who often did work for Garrard.
The tiara and is accompanying jewels are displayed with Princess Alice’s wedding gifts |
Two decades on, she gave the entire set to her new daughter-in-law, Alice, as a wedding present, echoing her own parents’ gift. The suite was included in the elaborate display of Alice’s wedding gifts, which you can learn more about here!
Princess Alice, Duchess of Gloucester wears the tiara and jewels at the Dorchester Hotel, 15 November 1955 (Keystone Pictures USA/Alamy) |
Alice wore the tiara often, and even posed in it for a famous series of photographs taken by Cecil Beaton. Here, she wears the tiara and jewels in 1955 in London for a fashion show at the Dorchester Hotel.
Alice wears the tiara, with Prince William of Gloucester and the Queen Mother, during the Dutch state visit, 13 April 1972 (PA Images/Alamy) |
She continued to wear the tiara throughout her life as a working royal. Above, Alice wears the suite in April 1972 during a state visit from Queen Juliana of the Netherlands. Also pictured here: the Queen Mother (more on her jewels from this occasion here) and Alice’s elder son, Prince William of Gloucester. William died only four months later in a plane crash.
JUSTIN TALLIS/AFP/Getty Images |
Today, the set is worn by Alice’s daughter-in-law, Birgitte, the wife of the current Duke of Gloucester. It’s not her most-worn tiara (that prize probably goes to the Honeysuckle Tiara, another legacy from Queen Mary), but it pops up now and again, as it did in March 2015 for the Guildhall banquet during the Mexican state visit. You’ll recognize quite a few pieces from the parure on Birgitte in the image above, taken during that banquet.
The Luxembourg Turquoise Tiara
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
The Luxembourgish royal vaults hold one of the best royal jewel collections in the world — one that can occasionally bring us a delightful surprise or two. That was the case with this suite of heirloom turquoise jewels, which we first saw put into the family’s current tiara rotation about a decade ago.
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
The suite, which is essentially a married parure, consists of a small diamond and turquoise tiara and accompanying coordinating jewels. The tiara features small pear-shaped turquoises surrounded by diamonds, set atop a base of turquoises between diamond prong-style elements. The tiara, which was reportedly made in the 1830s, looks a bit truncated on the wearer’s head; its design terminates rather abruptly at each end, rather than tapering as many similar tiaras would.
Wikimedia Commons |
The reported date of the piece’s creation, and its general profile, make me think that it wasn’t originally a tiara at all. Instead, it looks much more like a comb, a jeweled ornament that would be worn further back on a woman’s head during the Empire period, usually with a larger, more elaborate tiara set in front of it. For example, you can see a similar suite of turquoise and diamond jewelry, which includes both a tiara and a comb, in this miniature portrait of Josephine de Beauharnais, painted by Pierre Louis Bouvier in 1812. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Luxembourgish “tiara” was originally the smaller comb accompanying a larger (and perhaps now-lost) tiara like Josephine’s.
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
The small Luxembourgish tiara has a matching necklace, which features a row of oval turquoise and diamond clusters and a row of pear-shaped turquoise and diamond cluster pendants. According to Luxarazzi (the go-to resource on everything about the grand ducal family), Grand Duchess Maria Teresa brought the tiara and necklace in 2006 to Muriel Prieur, one of the curators of the family collections. The jewels were in some form of disrepair, and Maria Teresa asked Prieur to restore them so they could be worn again.
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
Maria Teresa also asked Prieur to create a new pair of earrings to go with the suite. Indeed, the earrings are noticeably more modern in design, including the bezel setting of the turquoise stud.
JACQUES COLLET/AFP/Getty Images |
The ladies of Luxarazzi also note that a third turquoise and diamond piece was brought to Prieur by the Grand Duchess for restoration: a larger, more complicated diamond and turquoise necklace. This necklace also features clusters of oval and pear-shaped turquoises and diamonds in its design, but the stones are larger and the pendants are longer. Some sections also feature diamonds set in anthemion-like designs.
JACQUES COLLET/AFP/Getty Images |
The larger, bib-style necklace was the first part of the set that Maria Teresa wore in public. In March 2007, she paired the necklace with the newly-created earrings for a gala at the Fine Arts Museum in Brussels during the family’s state visit to Belgium. (This was an important, sentimental state visit, as Grand Duke Henri’s mother was a Belgian princess who had passed away in 2005.)
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
In November 2008, Maria Teresa wore the restored tiara and small necklace in public for the first time, pairing them with the new earrings for a gala in Luxembourg during the state visit from the President of Finland.
Albert Nieboer/Royal Press Europe/Alamy |
Since then, two more Luxembourgish princesses have worn the jewels. Princess Tessy wore the tiara and earrings (without either necklace) for the National Day gala in 2010. Eight years later, Hereditary Grand Duchess Stephanie also wore the tiara for the annual National Day celebrations. On that occasion, she wore the tiara and earrings with the larger necklace from the set, the first time we’d seen that particular pairing in public.
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