Jewel History: Extravagant Splendors of the Modern Woman (1904)
Constance Cornwallis-West, ca. 1907 (source) |
From the London Mail — The desire for jewels and the extravagantly splendid displays now made by women who delight in such manifestations of wealth are two of the main characteristics of the power dress exercises over women in this luxurious age.
A million sovereigns sounds an incredibly huge sum of money to sink in precious stones, but the gem-caskets of some of our great ladies represent that value very closely, and it is actually touched in a few notable instances.
Lady Curzon, Vicereine of India, ca. 1903 (source) |
Quite moderately wealthy young married women do not consider their catalogue of jewels complete with two or three tiaras, a string of pearls capable of being measured by the yard, a stomacher brilliantly ablaze with gems, a dog-collar, and numerous necklets, rings of various colors to match various gems, to say nothing of aigrettes of diamonds, bracelets, brooches, and little ornaments by the hundred.
One single necklet of pearls — only a string that closely clasps the
throat — has been known to cost £90,000; a tiara swallows up any sum
up to £25,000, and even more when it contains practically priceless
stones; one brooch may easily represent £500, while a stomacher can
scarcely cost less. Hence, to be bedizended in gems that represent
£100,000 is not a difficult task for the woman who likes a barbaric
display and can afford to indulge her whim.
Queen Ena of Spain, ca. 1906 (source) |
The extravagance this craving for gems leads to is excused by some people on the score that precious stones are a good and sound investment, while the dealers in imitation gems truthfully aver that it fosters their trade.
A very quaint fashion from old times is the agrafe of brilliants, an ornament resembling a bow and bands of diamond duplicated so many times as to trim a dress from the decolletage to the hem of the skirt.
The ornaments graduate in size so that at the foot of the dress they are much larger than they are at the waist, thereby producing a very elegant effect. These necessarily are rarely to be seen in real stones, but sets of them are being sought in old French paste, which produces as brilliant an effect as real diamonds, and can scarcely be detected from them by the eyes even of experts.
Ornaments of this caliber are found upon quaint Old World dresses made with the corsage a point, and the full, simple skirt of bygone times. One ordered the other day for a woman whose vogue is the picturesque was made of cloud-gray satin, and was quite untrimmed save for the agrafes and a berthe and elbow-flounces of rich old lace.
Juliet nets of diamonds and pearls are so much more beautiful than those of colored stones that they are likely to last longer than the rest of their kind in the favor of the wealthy woman. A new set is made of gold lattice work, fastened where the lattice crosses with rosettes of diamonds, and all round the edges festooned with a glittering fringe of the same precious stones.
Very lovely aigrettes, composed of a pair of diamond leaves, the edges of which meet in the center, are being made purposely to be worn with the Marie Stuart coiffure, which dips in the center of the brow and causes a semi-conventional ornament of this kind to look unusually charming. The jewelers have been very busy lately inventing new ornaments or fresh ways of wearing old ones. How to make use of very long ropes of pearls, since it became less fashionable than it was a few years ago to wind them round the throat, has been a problem to the wealthy possessors of such baubles which has at last been answered.
Sophie of Prussia, ca. 1903 (source) |
A string of pearls twisted twice round the throat and then looped in front on the low corsage with fastenings here and there composed of jeweled brooches is, comparatively speaking, an old tale. The latest adaptation of this idea is to festoon the jewels at the back of the corsage as well as in the front, and if the strings are very long indeed, the effect produced is of the utmost magnificence. In some cases a complete berthe of splendid gems is provided by means of one long necklace of gems, or two or three worn at the same time.
The Habsburg Peridot Parure
Archduchess Isabella wears the peridot parure (source) |
Our focus today is a true royal rarity: a diamond parure that also includes a generous helping of peridot, the birthstone of all of you August babies. What could make it better? Why, a provenance that connects it with the Habsburgs, surely!
The set in question is a complete parure of peridot jewels: a tiara, a necklace, earrings, and a substantial brooch. The parure dates to about 1825 and has been attributed to Köchert, who would later become the imperial court jewelers to the Habsburgs. The tiara features large diamond scrolls, the center of which are studded with absolutely enormous peridots. Moreover, the tiara can also be supplemented with seven of the pendants from the necklace, which can be set upright atop the piece. A delicate floral motif runs through all of the pieces in the parure, including the pair of pendant earrings and the large devant de corsage.
Archduchess Isabella wearing the parure (source) |
It’s said that the first owner of the tiara was Archduchess Henriette of Austria, who was born a princess of Nassau-Weilburg (and was a great-great-granddaughter of George II of Great Britain). Her much older husband, Archduke Charles, was a field marshal who fought against Napoleon. Ironic that Napoleon’s enemies were quickly adopting the fashion for jewelry parures that he had begun in France!
From Charles and Henriette, the peridot set eventually passed to their grandson, Archduke Friedrich, and his wife, Princess Isabella of of Croÿ. Isabella became the wearer most associated with the tiara. She was photographed in the suite at one of the last great Habsburg celebrations: the coronation of Emperor Charles I of Austria-Hungary, which took place in December 1916 (seen below, as well as in the portrait above).
Archduchess Isabella wears the peridot set at the coronation of Charles I (source) |
Isabella’s husband died in 1936, many years after the Habsburgs had lost their imperial throne. The peridot jewels were auctioned off around the time of his death. Stripped of their titles, and without occasions for pomp and prestige, it’s not surprising that the jewels were sold. The buyers were members of the Coudenhove-Kalergi family, a clan of nobles from the present-day Czech Republic. They owned the parure for two generations, and then it was sold again in 2001.
Joan Rivers wears the peridot necklace and earrings, 2004
This time, Fred Leighton, the jewelry company that deals largely in vintage pieces, was the buyer. They often loan jewels to celebrities for public appearances, and the peridot parure was no exception. Above, you can see Joan Rivers wearing the necklace and earrings from the set at the Golden Globes in 2004. Fred Leighton sold either some or all of the parure to Lily Safra, a wealthy philanthropist; in turn, she sold the earrings and the brooch at Christie’s in 2012. Those two pieces alone fetched more than $170,000.
I only wish more royal families today experimented a bit more with semi-precious gems in their jewelry. Wouldn’t a peridot parure look magnificent today on Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden, Queen Letizia of Spain, or even the Duchess of Cambridge?
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